Two Days in Montreal: A Detailed Itinerary

Start Day 1 in Old Montreal (Vieux-Montréal), the city's historic heart. Begin at the Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal (110 Notre-Dame Street West), a Gothic Revival masterpiece built in 1829. The interior is a stunning blue-and-gold display of carved wood, stained glass, and vaulted ceilings — plan 45 minutes. Book the AURA light show ticket in advance for a multimedia experience that illuminates the basilica's interior.

For lunch, walk to the Marché Bonsecours (350 Rue Saint-Paul E), a restored market building with food stalls and shops. For a more authentic pick, walk to Schwartz's Deli (3895 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) for Montreal's famous smoked-meat sandwich — a must-do, even though it's a 20-minute walk from Old Montreal. For a closer pick, try Olive et Gourmando (351 Rue Saint-Paul O) for a great sandwich and a coffee.

After the basilica, wander Old Montreal's cobblestone streets. Walk down Rue Saint-Paul, the oldest street in the city, and browse the boutiques and galleries. Stop at the Pointe-à-Callière Museum, the city's archaeology and history museum, built on the site of Montreal's first settlement. Continue to the Old Port (Vieux-Port), and walk along the St. Lawrence River waterfront. In winter, the Old Port has an ice rink; in summer, there's a zipline and a Ferris wheel.

For dinner, eat at one of Old Montreal's classic French restaurants. Joe Beef (249 Rue Notre-Dame O) is the famous one — a meat-and-seafood temple that's hard to book but worth the effort. For an easier reservation, try Garde Manger (408 Rue Saint-François-Xavier) for French-Canadian seafood, or L'Express (3927 Rue Saint-Denis) for a classic French bistro. For a more affordable pick, try Olive et Gourmando (351 Rue Saint-Paul O) — a café-restaurant with excellent food and a cozy atmosphere.

After dinner, walk along the Old Port at night, when the lights reflect on the St. Lawrence. For a drink, try the Coldroom (a hidden speakeasy on Rue Saint-Paul — look for the unmarked door) or the SuWu (a cocktail bar on Rue Sainte-Catherine). End the night with a walk back through the cobblestone streets of Old Montreal, which are quiet and atmospheric after dark.

Start Day 2 on Mount Royal (Mont-Royal), the mountain in the centre of the city. Walk or take the 11 bus up to the Kondiaronk Belvedere, the main lookout, for a panoramic view of the downtown skyline, the St. Lawrence River, and the Olympic Stadium. The walk up takes about 30 minutes from the Plateau; the bus is faster. On a Sunday morning in summer, join the Tam-Tams — the informal drum circle and festival that takes over the mountain's east side.

For lunch, eat in the Mile End. Try Lawrence (5201 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) for a French-British bistro, or Dinnette Triple Crown (6849 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) for a fried-chicken and bourbon spot. For a more affordable pick, try the bagel shops (St-Viateur and Fairmount) for a bagel and a coffee, or grab a sandwich at Schwartz's Deli (if you didn't go on Day 1). For a classic Montreal experience, try a smoked-meat sandwich at Schwartz's, and then a bagel at St-Viateur or Fairmount.

After the mountain, walk down to the Plateau-Mont-Royal, Montreal's quintessential neighbourhood. Walk along Avenue du Mont-Royal, the main street, and browse the boutiques, cafés, and bookstores. Turn south on Rue Saint-Denis, and walk through the leafy Parc La Fontaine. Continue to the Mile End, the neighbourhood north of the Plateau, and visit the two famous bagel shops — St-Viateur Bagel (263 Rue Saint-Viateur O) and Fairmount Bagel (74 Avenue Fairmount O). Both have been making Montreal-style bagels (boiled in honey water, baked in a wood-fired oven) for over 60 years. Try both, and decide for yourself.

For dinner, eat in the Plateau or Mile End. For a classic Montreal experience, try Au Pied de Cochon (536 Avenue du Mont-Royal E) — Martin Picard's famous sugar shack-meets-bistro, with foie gras, pork, and maple. For a more affordable pick, try La Banquise (994 Rue Rachel E) — Montreal's most famous poutine, open 24 hours. For a mid-range pick, try Lawrence (5201 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) for a French-British bistro, or Dinnette Triple Crown (6849 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) for a fried-chicken and bourbon spot.

After dinner, end the night with a drink in the Plateau. Try the Bar Fly (512 Avenue du Mont-Royal E) for a dive bar with live music, or the Big in Japan (4175 Boulevard Saint-Laurent) for a cocktail bar. For a quieter end, walk through Parc La Fontaine at night, and then head back to your hotel.