Eating Newfoundland: Cod, Fish & Brewis and Screech

Newfoundland has a food culture unlike anywhere else in Canada — built on the cold North Atlantic, the isolation of an island at the edge of the continent, and a deep fishing heritage. It's worth a trip for the food alone. Here's what to try.

Cod, cod, cod Cod is the story of Newfoundland — the fish that built the province and the closure of whose fishery in 1992 devastated its outports. It's back, sustainably, and you should eat it every way: pan-fried cod tongues (actually a muscle, a delicacy), cod cheeks, and fish and brewis (salt cod with hardtack and scrunchions — crispy pork fat). Fish and brewis is the dish.

Game and foraging Moose is everywhere — there are more moose than people on the island, and moose stew, moose burgers, and moose sausages are on most menus. Foraged foods are central: bakeapples (cloudberries), partridgeberries, and wild mushrooms turn up in desserts and sauces.

Lobster and crab Cheaper than anywhere else on the Atlantic. In season (spring), a feed of lobster is a Newfoundland rite. Snow crab is also excellent and local.

Screech and rum culture Newfoundland's own rum — Screech — is the island's spirit, and 'screeching in' (a mock ceremony that makes you an honorary Newfoundlander, involving kissing a cod and a shot of Screech) is the most famous tourist ritual in the province. Lean in.

The baked goods Toutons (fried bread dough with molasses), figgy duff (a boiled pudding), and molasses cookies. Newfoundland's sweet tooth is real, and molasses is the base of it.

Where to eat St. John's has the best restaurants — look for the ones doing modern Newfoundland cuisine (cod, moose, foraged greens, and local spirits). In the outports, eat at the wharf and the community suppers. And never skip a 'jiggs dinner' (a boiled dinner) if one's on offer.