Charlevoix and the St. Lawrence: Quebec's Wild North Shore

Two hours north-east of Quebec City, the Charlevoix region is where the St. Lawrence River widens into a sea and the Laurentian Mountains crumple into a 400-million-year-old meteor crater. It's UNESCO-listed, whale-rich, and the prettiest part of Quebec that most visitors skip. Here's how to do it.

The drive Route 362 along the river is one of Canada's most scenic. Stop at Baie-Saint-Paul — an artists' town of galleries and bakeries — then climb to the cliffside village of Les Éboulements for the lookout over the crater valley. End at La Malbaie, the region's main town, where the grand Manoir Richelieu sits on a bluff.

Whales and the river From mid-June to October, beluga, minke, and fin whales feed at the confluence of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence. Boat tours leave from Baie-Sainte-Catherine; the best are the Zodiac excursions that get you close to the water. Bring a windbreaker — it's cold on the river even in summer.

Parc national des Grands-Jardins The northern section of the crater, reached via a dramatic climb, is a subarctic island of black spruce, caribou, and granite. Hike the Mont du Lac des Cygnes trail for the definitive crater view. The park is uncrowded even in August.

Where to eat and stay Charlevoix is a culinary region — its terroir is famous across Quebec. Look for Charlevoix lamb, the region's grain-fed veal, and the washed-rind cheeses (Migneron, Hercule) from the local fromageries. Stay in a riverside inn at La Malbaie or an auberge in the hills at Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs.

When to go September for fall colours along the river and the best whale sightings; July for the warmest weather and full trails. Avoid nothing — Charlevoix in winter is a quiet, snow-globe world of cross-country skiing and nordic spas.